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Know About - NORTH EAST INDIA

North-East India Trip Report

Part II - NORTH EAST INDIA
Trip Report by Dr. Fritz Jantschke

INDIA BIRDING Trip Report by Garry Armstrong ( Part 2 )

Daily Log: NORTH WEST INDIA BIRDING

Destination : Kaziranga / Guwahati / Manas

Manas Trip Report

An early morning wake up call followed by quick breakfast as we had decided to Manas via Guwahati so that group members could see some of the endangered animal at the Guwahati Zoo. We reached Guwahati well in time and went around the zoo which was not as we had expected. Most of the animals were not visible or were simply not there. However, did manage to see a Hoolock Gibbon swinging high on a tree making loud calls. Soon everyone decided to leave and on the way saw couple of Brow Antlered Deer in an enclosure. We left for Manas and decided to have lunch on the way at one of the roadside restaurants. It turned out to be a real funny event as the boys at this place had never catered to westerners let alone a group of them. Everyone was rushing around trying to organize things from different places. Any way meals were finished quickly and journey resumed.

A small halt was made for tea and it was also an educational experience for group members as they all had their first opportunity to see how Tandoori Roti (Bread) is made. Soon it was dark and couple of kms from Manas the road was totally engulfed with fog. So no one had any idea as to where we are going. Finally reached our camp located in the Eastern Periphery of the national park. Dinner and off to bed as an early morning call waited for us next day.

09th December
Manas National Park.

Early morning around 3 or may 4 AM heard loud trumpeting of wild elephants, this sounded quite close to our camp. Left for our morning excursion with our guides (all local tribal boys). Soon spotted a troupe of Capped Langurs high on the trees. This was my as well as most of the other group members first ever sighting of these primates. Must say they are quite beautiful to look at.

Resumed our excursion and soon reached one of the many forest check posts dotting the park. We were told that early in the morning a tusker had damaged one of the doors and destroyed papaya trees growing outside the check post. The boys (our guides and drivers) soon got busy preparing breakfast for us. Rest of the group spread out looking at different things around the post. Dr. Jantschke soon spotted a Nest of Tree Ants.

After breakfast we decided to walk along the forest track with out Guard, who incidentally was carrying a gun for our safety. It is mandatory in Kaziranga and Manas for the guards to carry a gun to scare away any charging elephant or rhino as well as to tackle on the poachers. Short stops were made on way to see the flora of Manas and hear about them from our guides.

On our return journey we made a detour in the forest to go and see a water hole. Everyone from the group tried their best to spot the tracks of different animals and some succeeded also (tracks seen Elephant, Different deers, Leopard and possibly a tiger)

10th December

Manas National Park.

Today we had decided to start our excursion at the Central Range of Manas and accordingly left in jeeps for a ride through many small villages in order to reach the Gate at Bansbari Range. Completed the paper work and entered the park.

Manas has a thick foliage of trees and undergrowth and many varieties of flowers can be seen blooming here.

Our plan today was to reach Mothanguri Forest Lodge overlooking Manas river and the Royal Manas National Park. On the way managed to see a female sambar resting in shade and another troop of Capped Langur as well as Hoary-Bellied Himalayan Squirrel (my first). Soon reached the complex at Mothanguri and saw a Semi Adult Gaur quite near the track. It seems he was quite used to the company of the forest guards and came close to one of our jeeps.

All the group members got busy clicking pictures of the beautiful view as well of each other.

After lunch a short break to relax as well as walk down to the entrance gate for Royal Manas National Park which is in Bhutan.

Return journey was interesting and soon came across tree lying across the track. Our guide told us that this is the handiwork of wild Elephants who do not like humans using the same path as they do. So this was their way to show protest.

The boys cleared another path through the forest with their machetes and journey was resumed.

December 2009

Manas National Park

Early in the morning left for a watch tower not far from the camp but got stopped in track by the sight of a lone Makhana. On close examination through bino’s we could also see that he is in Musth. So decided to beat an early exit from the area.

Just before reaching the camp we stopped at a local rice tillers shop to see how raw rice is tilled to make it edible. This was very unusual for most of the group members as they had never seen anything like this before.

Returned back to the camp for breakfast and decided to visit a family, in the village close to camp, who are an expert in rearing silk worms and weaving fabric which is quite rare and valued.

Later left to visit the family our local chief naturalist. His village is not far from the camp and is quite close to Bhutan border. A demo of making of rice wine was arranged by the family members and soon each member was offered a glass of freshly brewed rice wine. We also tasted for the first time wine made from banana. Quite an enjoyable experience.

This day being Friday was also the day of local market which happens once a week and people from Bhutan also come here to but items and grocery for day to day use. So a halt at the market was must for everyone.

Also visited a house in the village to see a local girl weaving the cloth on traditional loom.

Returned back to the camp as the local tribal council had made arrangements to hold a traditional welcome dance for the group members. A troop of local tribal girls in their colorful attire accompanied by musicians performed couple of dance forms which were part of the local tribal folklore.

The evening culminated with a fusion of East and West playing for each. One of the group member, a keen Violinist, was quite intrigued by the string instrument of local musician and wanted to try his hand on it. So first they played for each other trying to copy other’s tune and later on exchanged the instrument and tried paying on it. It was quite an interesting affair for all present including the President of the Local Council. The boys at the camp also tried their hand on playing the Violin.

December 2009

Manas / Guwahati / Delhi

This was a special day for all of us as we were all looking forward to see the rare and elusive Golden Langur.

Our trip ended at Guwahati airport after a appx 3 hrs drive from Manas with many fond memories from this highly informative and educative trip.

Part II - NORTH WEST INDIA BIRDING
Trip Report by Garry Armstrong

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